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The statement comes from the show notes of John Galliano’s latest show for Maison Margiela — a heady exploration of creative unsettling — but it applies to fashion in of fashion gets short shrift, treated as something other than the main event, its primary value to fuel social media or be available to buy right now. John Galliano for Maison Margiela, Bouchra Jarrar for Lanvin and Dries Van Noten all showed collections that unsettled familiarity or expectations.

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'At first I thought the clothes might be unflattering. I feel like a Barbie doll.' That might have had something to do with her 'Ken jacket', an enlarged version of a jacket worn by Barbie's boyfriend.

The show was an extraordinary fashion happening, the first of its kind.

Margiela's autumn/winter '94 collection was not shown in Paris last spring, like those of other designers; instead, Margiela presented it in the same week that it went into the shops.

As with anything, it’s not the reference, it’s what you do with it.

Galliano worked elements of sport in with other basics — trenchcoat, LBD, workwear, shirtings — in ways that made you rethink each one.

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