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When Mortensen was eleven, his parents divorced and things got ugly. He seems to do a lot for women, and his poetry, raw and intense, is filled with heartache. "Many, many times," he says, taking a long drag of his cigarette.) We head down a gravel driveway to his dad's farmhouse. He is happy that the daffodils he planted are already blooming.

There is an old bathtub in the yard (they had to replace it with one they could lift his dad into).

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There's lots of hunting and gore and kumbaya, and there's even a long, lingering scene of Mortensen once again in the altogether. On the way, he walks me through his "obsession" (his word) with death."I think about death all the time," he tells me as we both fire up another cigarette, him leaning over to light mine.

He has never had a problem with letting it all hang out; like his ability to speak eight languages, he doesn't really get why people make such a big deal out of it. "I mean, when I was a little kid, some of my first memories are waking up and going, 'Ugh, I'm gonna die.' " As a kid?

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He's prepared a gift bag."You can smoke in the car," Mortensen says, gesturing with his own smoldering American Spirit. here, in upstate New York, because Mortensen has taken some time off from his life in Madrid to care for his dying father. For the next eight hours, for about 250 miles, up to and around Watertown, through the Adirondacks and not quite to Canada—though he does ask if I brought my passport—with periodic stops at diners and waterfalls, lakes and trout ponds, his mother's grave and finally his father's farmhouse. Sometimes he drives cross-country, just for the hell of it. "They always do this thing where they try to upgrade me to some fancy fucking car." But he doesn't want a fancy fucking car. He is not in leaving Starbucks with his hand over his face. When he must go on the red carpet, you will not find him in a Dior tuxedo. Once, when asked whom he was wearing, Mortensen provided a name—Bambino Veira—and watched in bemusement as members of the Hollywood press dutifully wrote it down.

I work & take care of myself, I'm not interested in taking care of anyone, I already have kids I am ambitious but love to have fun! I work hard at the relationships that are in my life, I'm honest, I like to make people laugh and love serving others.

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We could've gone straight to Watertown and stayed there, and we could've gotten there a hell of a lot faster, but Mortensen, his two hands resting gently on the bottom of the steering wheel, doesn't like to drive too fast. Two and a half hours into our journey, Mortensen and I stop for coffee at a joint he likes because his mother used to go there as a teenager. We sit at the bar, and no one seems to recognize him, not even the pretty bartendress he chats up about Syracuse basketball. He was offered the role only when another actor, Stuart Townsend, was dropped at the last minute, and he took it only because his then-eleven-year-old son, Henry, had read (and loved) the Tolkien trilogy and convinced him to do it.

This is a remarkable feat for someone who looks like he does. Box-office smashes, all three of them, and they made him hugely famous (for a time) and rich. It goes ." That helps explain the well-worn leather-bound journal he carries with him everywhere.

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